Yunseo Choi S/S 2016
Fresh out of London’s Royal College of Art, Yunseo Choi’s Spring/Summer 2016 collection is a harbinger of high fashion’s future. With this collection, Choi discards the archetypes of menswear, favoring instead a distinctly futuristic aesthetic reminiscent of android warriors. The looks — sleek and minimal bottoms paired with highly sculptural top — all feature varying plastic structures formed from triangles. Choi uses these constructions for a variety of aesthetic effects: in one look they replace the sleeves by encaging the arms and torso; in another, the crystalline structure mimics a backpack; and still in others, it takes form as a breastplate.
The collection is evocative of medieval armor yet does not overemphasize its military inspiration. Instead of playing off that fashion cliché in a way that’s obvious, perhaps Choi is pointing instead to a dystopian future of robotic warfare and bionic soldiers. All questionably profound insight aside, Choi’s collection demonstrates her promise as a designer and perhaps the direction of high fashion.